It’s hard as being a boat engine! Unlike its automotive cousins, a spead boat engine is run at very high RPM’s and under a good load a lot more operation and yes it sits kept in storage a considerable amount of the time. It’s sort of the worst of both worlds. Today’s marine engines are very well made and in contrast to ones, really experience not many mechanical problems should they be properly maintained.
Push Maintenance – Most marine engines are cooled by their pumping of lake or ocean water to the engine from your pickup within the lower unit from the outdrive or outboard engine. This water is circulated with a water pump made up of a rubber or plastic impeller or fan which pulls the water in the lake and pumps up and through water jacket with the engine to maintain things cool. You may expect, there are sometimes impurities in the water or even the operator (somebody else, I know) that runs the bottom unit aground along with the impeller accumulates sand, dirt or other grit. These foreign substances wear on the impeller and quite often cause it to shred into pieces and fail. Also, when the engine is stored for almost a year, sometimes the rubber of the impeller gets brittle and cracks up. In any event, it’s just smart to proactively replace the impeller every 3-4 boating seasons. If your impeller fails while you’re running and you fail to see the temperature rising, your engine can readily and quickly overheat and self destruct.
Oil Change – Marine engines are usually not run over 60-80 hours annually and, therefore, don’t require oil changes often. Usually, it is a good plan to improve the oil (and filter) once a year at the conclusion of the growing season. If your old, dirty oil is within the crankcase in the event the engine is stored in the off-season, it might turn acid and damage the internal engine components it’s supposed to protect. Needless to say, 2 stroke outboards don’t have any crankcase and so no oil to improve. On these applications, it certainly does pay to stabilize any fuel remaining in the tank and to fog the engine with fogging oil before storage.
Fuel Injectors – Most newer marine engines are fuel injected and, when fuel is allowed to age and thicken during storage, the fuel injectors can readily become clogged and may even fail at the outset of the growing season. To avoid this occurrence, it is just a good option to operate some fuel injector cleaner mixed in the last tank of fuel ahead of the engine is scheduled up for storage.
Battery – If you take proper care of your boat’s battery, it is going to offer you a few years of fine service. You should take care once you accomplish a voyage to ensure that all electrical components are switched off and, when you have a principal battery switch, make sure that it’s turned off. Whenever the boat is stored for just about any prolonged time period, the battery cables must be disconnected.
Lower Unit Lubrication – The reduced part of your outdrive or outboard engine is filled with lubrication fluid that keeps all the moving parts properly lubricated and running efficiently. The reservoir should not contain water inside the fluid. The drive needs to be inspected no less than annually to make sure that the drive is loaded with fluid knowning that no water occurs. That is not at all hard and low-cost to complete.
Electronic Control Module – Most contemporary marine engines are controlled with a computer call an ‘Electronic Control Module’ (ECM) which regulates the flow of fuel and air and also the timing with the ignition system. Another valuable function of the ECM would it be stores operational data as the engine is running. Certified marine mechanics have digital diagnostic tools which can be connected to the ECM to find out the important good the engines in addition to any problems.
Anodes On the underwater portion of every outdrive and outboard engine, you’ll find more than one little metal attachments called ‘anodes’. They normally are manufactured from zinc and so are meant to attract stray electrolysis. This happens when stray voltage in the electric system of your boat is transmitted through the metal aspects of the boat looking for a ground. The anodes are designed to be sacrificial and absorb the stray current and gradually deteriorate. This technique is magnified in salt-water. At least one time a year, you are able to your anodes for decay and replace those who have the symptoms of decayed greatly. Replacement anodes are not tremendously expensive plus they are designed to protect your boat from some serious decay of some very costly metal marine parts.
If a marine engine is properly maintained, it must present you with many years of hassle free operation. It must be vital that you you to know a certified marine technician in your area. As with most things, “An ounce of prevention will probably be worth a pound of cure”.
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